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Name of ride: Team
Tai-Rooga
Length: Approximately 100km (depends on starting point)
Terrain: Scenic Mountain Road
Location: Central Cross Island Highway, Taroko National
Park
Late
one Thursday night in the headquarters of FFTA, a daring plan
was conceived. It began as a proposed day trip to Hualien,
then evolved into a major, high-speed, downhill mission in
the central island mountains of Taiwan. The plan was simple,
but brilliant. Starting from the top of Ho Huan Shan at 10,000
feet, a descent down the Cross-Island Highway, through the
famous Taroko Gorge, and eventually rolling out to the East
Coast near Hualien - more than 80 kilometers of non-stop downhill
action!!!
DAY
1: TAIPEI - PULI
The
success of this mission relied on the loyalty and dedication
of four renowned downhill fiends: Patrick, Geoff, Dennis and
John. Code-named "Team Tai-Rooga" (a phonetic pronunciation
of Taroko in Chinese), they rendezvoused at 11pm on Friday
night to board the last bus to Taichung. John had been involved
in a similar mission a few months before, and given his detailed
inside knowledge of the area, was therefore appointed Official
"Trailmeister".
After
finally arriving in Puli at 2.30 am, each went searching for
a place to nap before catching the early morning bus up the
mountain. Demonstrating their legendary resourcefulness, Patrick
and Dennis found a timber bench in the bus station, Geoff
a sticky leather sofa at a taxi stand, and John, a nice slab
of concrete on the roadside.
DAY
2: PULI - TIENHSIANG
Next
morning the boys were feeling groggy but excited. With the
bikes loaded on the back seat of the bus, they headed up the
mountain past stunning views of the Wanda Reservoir below
Wushe, eventually stopping at Tsuifeng: a point some 10 km
short of Ho Huan Shan. The plan now was to catch a ride on
a local truck the rest of the way to the top.
There
they were: ahead of schedule, eager, excited, and on top of
the world. It was the start of a beautiful day. They were
within striking distance of the biggest downhill run in Taiwan
- but at this point things started to wrong.
No
one really knows what happened, but someone mumbled something
about maybe riding up to the summit, and in a fit of bravado
this took hold. "Yeah, can't be that far"
"Yeah, I reckon we're almost at the top already"
"Yeah, I wouldn't mind getting a bit of exercise before
riding down". Suddenly no one could back down. Grinning
nervously, and doing their best to look tough, our intrepid
team set off, pedaling uphill in the dry mountain air.
After
two hours of this nonsense the boys were strung out in various
stages of exhaustion. Patrick was having hallucinations, Geoff
and Dennis were babbling incoherently to each other, and John
was in tears. "I'm pretty sure the next hill is the last
one," he sobbed over and over again.
The
sun was beating down now, the air was thin, and the boys were
dry, but finally at 1:00 pm they got to the top. After all
the coughing and wheezing died down Geoff whispered "Well
..that
wath'nt too bad
.", "Nah,
..not too bad"
gasped Patrick. "Yeah
.I knew that wath going to
be the last hill" John said, drying his eyes, while Dennis
just lay unconscious on the grass twitching occasionally.
But
there it was spread out below them. A breath-taking view of
the East Coast with a winding road cut into the side of the
mountain. Down, down and more down. The chill of the first
short run brought everyone back to their senses, and after
pulling on jackets the glint slowly returned to their eyes.
Team Tairooga was back in action!!
Steadily
at first, and with regular photo stops, the boys made their
way down. Then as their excitement grew, faster and tighter
through corners, jockeying with occasional cars, and reveling
in the scenery as they rolled from village to village in the
never-ending downhill. But after an hour of hysterical laughing
and whooping, suddenly it did end. Curving around into a valley
and through a tunnel Team Tairooga slowly slid to a stop at
the beginning of what was an unmistakable upward incline.
The boys all went quiet and looked at each other with a mixture
of confusion and horror. "Um
.I think this is just
a small hill" Official Trailmeister John said, his lower
lip trembling slightly. Geoff went white. His mouth was moving,
but no sound came out. Dennis started twitching again, and
Patrick promptly threw up.
No
one recollects clearly what happened after that, but the boys
eventually found themselves sprawled on the roadside 1000
feet higher up, and staring blankly down at clouds in the
valley below. "Yeah
um, sorry
.forgot about
that other hill" says John nervously. "It's all
downhill from here though
..um
.I think".
"What
about tunnels
are we gonna need lights??" Patrick
gasps between dry retches. "Nah" says the Official
Trailmeister.
Evening
is approaching, and the air is noticeably cooler. Once again,
the downhill brings everyone back to life. The lead alternates,
with the occasional warning "Car!", "Truck!!",
"BUUSSS!!!!" being passed back as they hit the corners.
John
is in the lead going round one corner, and then suddenly is
in a tunnel. Unlike the previous ones, this one has no light
at the end. It starts to curve and he hits the brakes in the
total darkness. All Patrick and Dennis can hear is John yelling
"WAAH!!!", and sound of Geoff's skidding wheels
very close behind him. The two eventually come to a standstill
in the pitch black. John can feel Geoff's breath on the back
of his neck.
Patrick
cycles slowly past the two of them saying "Hey, good
thing I've got a light". John replies "Oh.
yeah,
I remember this tunnel now
it's quite a long one".
Team Tairooga continues down, but with Patrick leading the
way through several more long, dark, spooky tunnels. Each
one is marked by the official trailmeister comment: "Oh
right
.forgot about this one as well", "Oh
yeah, I know this tunnel
.hey, it's a shame we didn't
all bring lights, eh", etc, etc.
The
down goes on and on, with the earlier uphills eventually forgotten.
Finally Team Tairooga hits cloud base, and the light is magic
as they descend through the mist. This marks the last photos
of the day and just on dusk they roll into Tienhsiang. The
evening is spent at the Catholic Hostel nursing sunburn, and
aching muscles but everyone is on a high.
DAY
3: TIENHSIANG - HUALIEN
Yet another beautiful day in the
Central Taiwan Mountains. The road is not so steep now, but
it's still all downhill for Team Tairooga, and mellow riding
through the awesome Taroko Gorge. Today is official photo-shoot
day. Geoff and John as official models, and Patrick and Dennis
as Photographer/Wardrobe, with a view to making Team Tairooga
look officially very tough.
After a leisurely trip in and out
of tunnels along the steep sided gorge, the road levels out
alongside the river, and it's flat all the way out to the
beach. Then it's a long, dusty 15 km haul down the coast.
Team Tairooga stops for a final team photo at the entrance
to the gorge, and then it's every man for himself in the race
to the first 7-11 outside Hualien. The boys eventually re-group
after filling up on junk food, and push onto the railway station,
stopping only to leer at Binglung babes along the way.
Another epic Mission Adventure brought to you
by FFTA!
© Formosan Fat Tire Association 2000-2008. All rights reserved.
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