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It surprises me to learn that Cambodia
was once the center of the Khmer Empire controlling much of
the area occupied by Thailand, Vietnam and Laos. This was at
a peak during the 9th – 14th centuries, when the temples
at Angkor represented the height of civilization at this time. |
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Although Cambodia is still recovering
from the horrific breakdown of society under the Khmer Rouge,
and the warfare and violence following America’s crusade
against Communism, Cambodia today is largely safe and peaceful. |
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There is a deep sense of history
represented in the temples of Angkor. These cover an enormous
area outside Siam Reap. By far the best way to explore this
area is by bicycle. |
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Crossing from Vietnam into Cambodia
is a fairly low-key affair. I eventually arrive at the Vietnam
border post at Tinh Bien. On the Cambodian side this is nothing
more than a mud hut located in the middle of a rice paddy.
Two Cambodian border guards are sitting inside. This is one
of the less popular border crossings and they clearly don’t
get many visitors. |
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Rather than check my passport they
seem more interested in chatting. I’m worried that this
is a preamble to some bribery, but they are generally friendly
and relaxed, and I eventually head off with a wave. |
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The tarseal ends abruptly at this
point, and a lumpy, dusty, dirt road stretches off into the
distance. I’ve just spent the last three weeks cursing
Vietnamese roads, but at this point I begin to realise that
I’ve been taking Vietnam’s rough, but always sealed
roads very much for granted. |
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The Cambodian countryside is amazing.
So clean, vivid and unspoilt. The terrain seems to alternate
between sun-soaked rice paddies divided by strips of jungle
at regular intervals. My “water-proof” sunscreen
as usual is washed off by sweat after the first 5 minutes,
and I can feel my third layer of skin getting fried. |
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The villages located in these shady
jungle strips are very basic. Dirt and timber huts blending
into the trees, with wood smoke highlighting shafts of sunlight.
I stand out conspicuously with my gleaming 21st century steel
and lycra technology, but instead of the usual “give
me one dollar” chorus, the kids just stare while the
elders give a friendly nod. |
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The Cambodians seem very relaxed
and quiet compared to the Vietnamese. Unlike the loud roadside
cafes in Vietnam, I have no problem lingering in these peaceful
villages. |
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Eventually the midday sun is too
much for me and I pull off into the shade of a jungle strip.
There I meet “Ghayta” who is 23, and very pregnant.
She’s a teacher, and speaks amazing English. We have
a pleasant chat while drinking from coconuts, although there’s
an unmistakable sadness about her. Seems her taxi driver husband
found the mud-hut lifestyle a little too quiet, and recently
disappeared back to the city. Mum is looking on anxiously,
and it’s clear they are all hoping I am the one to take
his place! |
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Eventually the sun starts to simmer
off. I wish Ghayta good luck as I head away. For a brief moment
I consider whether a pampered, western male like myself could
in anyway adapt to life in a remote Cambodian village. The
answer is clearly no…. and I settle back into pedaling
over the dusty ruts. |
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My elation on finally arriving in
Takeo, and the start of one of the sealed national highways
is short-lived. Although things have sped up considerably since
the dirt road, I’m now subject to a constant vibration
from the pebbled, pot-holed tarmac. Sugar cane juice keeps
me going all the way into Phnom Penh. |
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Phnom Penh is a sprawling city with
lots to see, including the sobering site of the Killing Fields,
and Tuol Sleng: the inner city school converted by the Khmer
Rouge into a torture facility, and which served as a holding
pen for those scheduled for execution. |
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There are stories of theft and violence
in Phnom Penh, although I saw no signs of this while I was
there. It’s difficult to gauge how much of a risk exists,
but in any case, with my five week journey coming to a close,
I’m anxious to get to Siam Reap and experience the highlight
of the journey: the famous temples of Angkor. |
All Photos and Text ©
John McHale.
